The Journey to Youthful Skin
Aging is a natural part of our skin's story. As it thins over time, it loses its youthful bounce and fine lines deepen into wrinkles. Beyond natural aging, external factors like sun exposure, smoking, and pollution also accelerate these signs, making crow’s feet, laugh lines, and frown lines more pronounced. But science and nature offer solutions to prevent and mitigate this process.
Samphire Cells: Nature's Resilient Ally
Samphire clinging to the rock, exposed to the assaults of salty sea spray.
Helena Rubinstein has a powerful ingredient in its arsenal: Samphire native vegetal cells. This halophyte, known for its ability to survive in extreme conditions like strong winds, dryness, and saltwater exposure, owes its resilience to a specialized defense and stress resistance system.
Scientifically known as Crithmum maritimum, this sea fennel stands out for its unique properties and benefits. From this plant, we’re able to make what we call dedifferentiate cells, “the mother of all cells,” a canvas from which we can grow entire plants and cultivate native vegetal cells using biotechnology.
The Science Behind Samphire Cells’ Skin Benefits
Samphire's rise to prominence is attributed to its high concentration of plant stem cells, which play an active part in skin regeneration. These native cells stimulate fibroblasts, the main cells found in the connective tissues that play a crucial role in the secretion of collagen proteins, and maintenance of tissues in the body. This action fosters skin regeneration, making native vegetal cells effective in reducing fine lines and smoothing skin texture.
A study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology(1) highlights the beneficial effects of Samphire cells on skin health. The study observed an enhanced recovery rate in epidermal permeability barrier function following controlled skin damage and the application of Samphire-based formulations. This finding suggests that native vegetal cells may significantly aid the skin's natural repair processes and maintain its barrier function, which is integral to overall skin health and anti-aging properties.
Power of Retinol in the nature
Some compare samphire to retinol due to its anti-aging effects. Thanks to extensive work by Odile Damour Skin Substitute Laboratory of Lyon(2) and Dr. Jean Marc Lemaitre at biotech start-up Ingraalys, we know that native vegetal samphire cells boast a trio of compelling powers(3,4): protection across all skin barriers, cell regeneration, and cell metabolism and radical defense. Traditionally, retinol has been the go-to ingredient for anti-aging due to its efficacy in skin renewal. However, samphire cells are emerging as a sustainable and sensitive skin-friendly alternative. Boasting retinol-like effects, they are gaining recognition for their effectiveness in skin renewal and regeneration, as well as thickening of the epidermis contributing to improved skin defense.
These native vegetal cells also boost cellular metabolism, multiplying their Bioenergetic Health Index by 10 and increasing their reserve energy production capacity. What’s more: Samphire cells can stimulate cellular metabolism no matter the skin cell’s age, and it’s six times more effectively than vitamin C.
The HR Treatment
Helena Rubinstein’s Powercell Skinmunity range concentrates the regenerative power of millions of native vegetal cells to activate cellular regeneration and deeper skin protection.
Science-Grounded, Nature-Inspired
Samphire native cells reflect the synergy between scientific insight and nature’s resilience. Echoing Helena Rubinstein's commitment to pioneering skincare solutions, Samphire native cells stand out for their regenerative properties, reinforcing an ethos that tapping nature's potent forces leads to healthier, more rejuvenated skin.
(1) Dynamics of skin barrier repair following preconditioning by a biotechnology-driven extract from samphire (Crithmum maritimum) stem cells. Caucanas M, et al. J Cosm Dermat, 10, 288–293, 2011
(2) Model of in vitro Healing to Test the Influence of Dedifferentiated Crithmum maritimum Cells on Dermal Repair and Epidermal Regeneration. Lequeux C et al. Skin Pharmacol Physiol ; 24:75–80, 2011
(3) Montastier et al. Clinical study on the repair of the barrier function by a cosmetic formulation containing an extract of dedifferentiated Crithmum maritimum cells. AMWC, Monaco, 2021
(4) Gueniche A. and Lemaitre JM. Preventive medicine for the most stressed skin. AMWC, Monaco, 2024
Audrey Gueniche
– Scientific Director
Audrey GUENICHE is a Doctor in Pharmacy and has a PhD in skin biology. She has a distinguished career of over three decades at L’Oréal in Research and Innovation. Her scientific contributions have been in the areas of topical and food supplements of skin, scalp, hair health and beauty. Audrey’s experience is extensive: from vitro to clinical trials, to open innovation and development. She has published over 130 papers in peer-reviewed journals, presented in 80 international congresses and, additionally, has been recognized and guest speaker in 50 plenary conferences. By embracing an innovative mindset, Audrey is passionate in finding new areas to promote actives and formulas, prove new claims and scientific communications, and reinvent evaluations. As HELENA RUBINSTEIN’s Scientific Director, Audrey pursues the brand’s long-standing avant-garde research and science.
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