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Pro-Xylane™: The science behind one of Helena Rubinstein's star active ingredients

In avant-garde skincare innovation, Pro-Xylane™ emerges as a standout ingredient, acclaimed for its remarkable efficacy and scientific substantiation. Pro-Xylane™ is a testament to pioneering research and sustainable practices in skincare science.
11 set 2024


Understanding Aging Skin


The journey of skin aging is marked by crucial changes: skin becomes thinner, less dense, and gradually loses its youthful plumpness. External factors such as sun exposure, smoking, and environmental pollutants exacerbate this natural aging process, accelerating the appearance of signs of aging, like crow’s feet, frown and eleven lines, and laugh lines.

The resulting three clinical grades of aging scars provide one of the biggest challenges for aesthetic medicine:


Visible aging scars

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Deep wrinkles, roughness, and uneven complexion.


Structural aging scars

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Loss of firmness, sagginess, and tonicity break.


Fragilized aging scars

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Dryness, tugging sensations, and weaken skin.


Each grade requires specific treatment protocols and offers its own challenges in terms of skin repair and regeneration. But it all starts with exceptional active ingredients. That’s where Pro-XylaneTM comes in.


Pro-XylaneTM: A Biomimetic Marvel


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Pro-Xylane a naturally occurring molecule acting on major mechanisms of skin ageing.


Pro-XylaneTM is a revolutionary patented molecule that has marked a significant milestone in skincare science. Its creation involved 70 experts and resulted in more than 12 scientific publications.

Its story begins in 2003, at our Advanced Research Laboratories in Chevilly-Larue, France. Developed over seven years, Pro-XylaneTM is crafted from xylose, a natural sugar found in abundance in beech trees. The chemistry process behind the extraction of the Pro-XylaneTM molecule involves using renewable beech wood, a limited number of synthesis steps to reduce waste, and water as the solvent.


The Science Behind the Anti-Aging Effects of Pro-XylaneTM


At the core of the action of Pro-XylaneTM is its ability to penetrate deep into the skin's layers, targeting the extracellular matrix while directly influencing overall repair and regeneration of the skin.

Picture the skin as a building, and the extracellular matrix as a buttress system. This network of molecules outside the skin cells provides crucial structural and biochemical support. As we age, these “buttresses” weaken, leading to common signs of aging like wrinkles, dryness, and sagging.

Pro-Xylane’sTM efficacy comes from its ability to stimulate production of a variety of collagens, proteoglycans, and glycosaminoglycans (GAGs), key elements for skin firmness and elasticity.

Especially, in epidermis Pro-XylaneTM stimulates the expression of proteoglycan/syndecans and of hyaluronan receptor at the surface of cells. And interestingly protect the growth factors. It reinforces also dermal-epidermal junction by stimulating collagen, nidogen and laminin and perlecan. And In dermis Pro-XylaneTM stimulates the synthesis of sulfated GAGs and also, procollagens, collagens, fibrillin and tenascin.

By enhancing the synthesis of these key elements, Pro-XylaneTM reinforces the biomechanical properties of the skin's cellular matrix reinforcing the connection between its deeper layer, the dermis, and the outer layer, the epidermis.

The hydrophilic nature of GAGs, akin to moisture-retaining sponges, upholds the skin's resilience and moisture equilibrium. This comprehensive action leaves the skin both hydrated and plump for a youthful appearance—reduced wrinkles, and improved skin recovery, firmness, elasticity, and homogeneity.

In addition, unlike some anti-aging ingredients that may cause skin irritation, Pro-XylaneTM is known for its mildness, making it suitable for even sensitive skin types.


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The HR Treatment


Since 2008, Helena Rubinstein has collaborated with Laclinic Montreux and Dr. Michel Pfulg on the Replasty skincare range, which incorporates up to 30% Pro-XylaneTM in its formulations.This high concentration exemplifies the range's focus on advanced anti-aging efficacy, merging reparative medicine with avant-garde skincare. Pro-XylaneTM is a cornerstone of scientific skincare innovation, embodying Helena Rubinstein's dedication to breakthrough research and sophisticated formulations.

As a leading example of biomimicry in beauty, it demonstrates the potential of harnessing natural processes to enhance skin vitality and combat key signs of aging.





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Audrey Gueniche
– Scientific Director


Audrey GUENICHE is a Doctor in Pharmacy and has a PhD in skin biology. She has a distinguished career of over three decades at L’Oréal in Research and Innovation. Her scientific contributions have been in the areas of topical and food supplements of skin, scalp, hair health and beauty. Audrey’s experience is extensive: from vitro to clinical trials, to open innovation and development. She has published over 130 papers in peer-reviewed journals, presented in 80 international congresses and, additionally, has been recognized and guest speaker in 50 plenary conferences. By embracing an innovative mindset, Audrey is passionate in finding new areas to promote actives and formulas, prove new claims and scientific communications, and reinvent evaluations. As HELENA RUBINSTEIN’s Scientific Director, Audrey pursues the brand’s long-standing avant-garde research and science.

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